Looking out the airplane window as we dipped down to land for our first ever trip to Paris, we were treated to a scene of beautiful snow blanketing all the monuments and buildings we hoped to visit. However, disliking cold and snow a wee bit more each year, I was glad it quickly dissipated.

We had only two full days in Paris and wanted to make every moment count. So, despite the cold and damp, we checked in near 5 p.m., dropped our bags at the Airbnb, and went off to explore. It would have been helpful if we spoke French, especially since the Greek SIM card in my phone decided to stop working in France. At least we could call up files we’d already viewed on our phone when wifi was available, like a Google map with directions to the Louvre, so off we went, metro-ing most of the way.

The Louvre, easily the No. 2 or 3 top site in Paris (the Eiffel Tower always wins, with Notre Dame jostling back and forth with the Louvre), is open until 9 p.m. on certain evenings. Somehow, we got lost. It was Cold with a capital C, and dark. And the many French people we asked, who spoke some English, acted like they have never heard of the world’s most-visited museum. Finally, it dawned, ‘oh, the Louvre’, and we were sent in the right direction.

Spotting the famous pyramid entrance improved our attitudes. Inside is a massive, open area that branches off into various wings of the old palace. Since the night was getting away from us, we made a beeline to see Da Vinci’s Mona Lisa, briefly enjoying all the other works of art along the way.

Patiently waiting for all the teens to take their selfies from the roped-off area, about 12 feet from the painting, we slowly shuffled our way in front of the most famous painting in the world. The oil paint is cracking and fading, and yet that smile (I’d call it a smirk) is mesmerizing. It is unique and does seem to say, “I know something you don’t know.” And still, we wondered, why is this painting so revered, better than those nearly photographic Caravaggio’s I tend to prefer, which are also hanging in the Louvre?

The next morning, we were off to see Notre Dame. We thought we had figured out the bus route, but the one we were on suddenly terminated. Everyone got off the bus, and there were no others in site. So we started hoofing it in the general direction of the river.

We saw signs for the Pantheon and decided to go a few blocks out of our way to take a look. We enjoyed the outer structure, but since we’d just been two nights before in the Rome Pantheon, which was very impressive, we decided to skip this one. Instead, next to it, was an alluring church, Saint-Étienne-du-Mont, where we did walk about and saw the beautiful shrine of St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. The interior of the church was outfitted with rattan chairs, and it was lighter than many old cathedrals. Very worth a few minutes of precious time in Paris.

Once at Notre Dame, we took the many obligatory photos and searched for gargoyles, the hunchback, and Esmeralda, spying only the first. The interior was stately and stuffed with visitors, some of whom don’t know how to whisper while a noon church service was being held. It was a cloudy day, and the interior is cavernous and dark, but when I stepped into the mid-section, I literally gasped at the beauty of the lofted circular stained-glass windows. Beauty and light shine through, even on a sunless day.

We were advised by Simon’s mum to see Sainte-Chapelle, a chapel famed for its stained glass. She’d seen it when she was 18 and had been impressed. Sainte-Chapelle is still impressive. It is an absolutely amazing, gothic-style chapel, attached to the palace that was home to France’s kings a few hundred years back. We purchased a combo ticket that also gave us entrance to the Concierege. We enjoyed walking through the guards’ hall and the old prison chambers, home to Marie Antoinette just prior to her beheading. The building is a beautiful “museum” of the French Revolution.

As a free bonus, we also got to see one of Paris’ famous demonstrations at the plaza across from the Concierege and the Hall of Justice. There were no yellow vests in sight–this was a group of illegal immigrants demanding papers, apparently–but there was drum beating and speeches and lots of riot control police.

The goal for our last full day was to go to the Eiffel Tower. We had spied her several times, including from the plane. But with a chilly rain and our own horrible colds slowing us down, we decided on another museum day instead of going straight to the tower.

We began the day at the wonderful D’Orsay Museum. Wonderful to me because it has a large collection of my favorite artist, Vincent Van Gogh. It was a joy to see many of his paintings so closely, including the lesser known Starry Night Over the Rhône (the Starry Night I have seen at MOMA in NYC). There was also a vast collection of Monet, Manet, Gauguin, Renoir, Cezanne, Cassatt and on.

Lunch in the 5th Floor D’Orsay café was delicious and affordable and had the interesting view of seeing the backside of the street-facing clock tick in reverse. The main entrance has an oft-photographed golden clock that draws the eye up and to the walkway behind it.

We bought a combo d’Orsay ticket with the much smaller Musee de l’Orangerie art gallery. If you love Monet’s Water Lilies, this is the ticket for you. There is a nearly 360-degree view of Monet’s special water lilies peace exhibit in the l’Orangerie. The Eiffel Tower is in clear view of the gallery parking lot, so after leaving the museum we aimed straight for the no. 1 Paris attraction.

Even for a couple of 50-somethings, it really is exciting to see the Eiffel Tower. We weaved around buildings, lost sight of her, shivvered in the cold rain, and then we were there. Like most places, you have to enter a security check before getting on property. We went in, walked under the belly, got in line, which noted a limited assent due to some maintenance work, and decided, we felt too sick, and the weather was too bad, and the day too gray to warrant paying big bucks to go up the Tower. But we still loved just being there, and that part is free.

We departed in search of coffee and a very late lunch. We settled in a seat at a café near the Tower, but left after viewing the 5 Euro cost for a cup of coffee. We got on a city bus, headed back to our district, and got out in a non-touristy section and enjoyed a crepe meal and dessert, and coffee all for about $20. It can be done!

But that is not the tip alluded to in the heading. It’s this: DO DRINK THE WATER. Paris has the best tasting tap water we’ve ever had. Ever. So when you go, do not waste money on expensive bottled water.

And lastly, tip no. 2, keep some change on you. Public “luxury” bathrooms outside Notre Dame, and other places, cost 2 Euros to use.

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